Veterans Day

Thank you to all veterans.

We at TPN hope all of you have a blessed day.

Pickdog
III

New Member - CK in Southeast Texas

I’d like everyone to give a big Texas welcome to CK from the Southeast Texas area as a new member of the Texas Preppers Network. CK has decided to become a member of TPN. He will also be contributing ideas about beginning preps and other great ideas as well.

You can contact CK in Southeast Texas at: clklock@gmail.com

His e-mail is located in the side bar for future reference.

CK looks forward to sharing ideas and information with everyone.

Welcome to the Texas Preppers Network!

Be aware. Be informed. Be prepared.

Riverwalker

Membership in the TPN

It’s been a while since I talked about membership in The Texas Preppers Network. I talked to Mayberry the other night for quite a while and this is just one of the topics we covered. We are always looking for new persons to join the network and help others in our great state become more aware, more informed about relevant issues and better prepared to deal with adverse conditions, emergencies or a crisis.

So how do you become a member?

First, you don’t need to be a blogger. All you need to be is a Texan concerned with preparedness issues that are of interest or relevant to the unique conditions Texans face everyday.

Second, you will need a non-personal e-mail address that can be posted so that other members can contact you about information on happenings in your area of the state. Texas is a big place and much too large for any one person to stay effectively informed about any disasters or emergencies that may occur. We rely on local people to supply relevant information and insight on things that are happening in their area. A non-personal e-mail will also allow you to set up some serious spam controls. It is unfortunate that there are a lot of “e-mail farmers” that collect e-mail addresses posted on the internet, so get ready to get a little spam. Personally, I get a LOT!

Third, send your thoughts on being better prepared or information on ideas that you think may help others be better prepared. You can e-mail Mayberry or myself and we will see to it that your information is posted on TPN. If you are a blogger, you may also be given posting privileges once you are a listed member.

Fourth, your level of participation is decided by you. Serious bloggers know how time consuming it can be to maintain a site. This is being done for you and all we ask is that you submit your thoughts and ideas whenever possible. I don’t post a lot of information directly on TPN because it is meant as a place to share ideas that are specific to preparedness issues in the great Sate of Texas. My personal blog, Stealth Survival, is more of a general nature where survival and preparedness topics are concerned. You also don’t have to be a Hemingway to write something relevant. It may be a great link to a website that you know about, it could be something involving your own experience in preparedness or an update on severe weather conditions that may be affecting your area and is of interest to others in the same area. The smallest of things can have a big impact on being prepared.

Just as a computer network allows individual computers to be connected so that everyone can access needed information, so too is the purpose of the TPN. It is to allow individuals to connect with each other to have access to more and better information.

Be aware. Be informed. Be prepared.

Riverwalker

Special Note:

MH and CK in Texas: I will be contacting you shortly or you can email me directly.

RW

Fort Hood Shootings

We at Texas Prepper's Network offer our condolences and pray for the families and victims of this horrible event. And to the suspect, if guilty, may you rot in hell.

All Texas Flags are to be flown at half-mast until at least Sunday by order of Governor Perry.

Pickdog
III

Raising Horses - Haltering the Foal

First off, let me say, I DO NOT advocate leaving a halter on any foal or horse while unattended. Too many times a foal or Horse has become injured, maimed and killed simply because their halter got tangled up with something. If you can’t catch your horse or it won’t come to you, then it’s a behavior problem that needs re-schooling.

The mare and foal should be in the corral, small paddock or large stall area you have been sequestering them in since birthing. Depending on the attitude of the mare, you can leave her loose or you may have to tie her up to keep her from interfering. A foal’s attitude is derived from the mare. How a mare reacts to things will transfer to the foal as it sees that this is the proper course of action. Irregardless of how you treat the mare, remember to be extra cautious and keep an eye on the mare. She can and will hurt you if she thinks you’re hurting the foal. DO NOT SEPARATE THE MARE AND FOAL.

To begin haltering a young foal, ensure you have a proper fitting halter. I like the kind that has adjustable the nose piece as well as the adjustable side or cheek pieces and crown piece. This type of halter allows further adjustment as the foal grows. You may have to adjust the halter to its smallest configuration in the beginning. It should fit as snugly as possible without being very tight. Some small amount of play is allowable, a too-large halter will allow the foal to slip it off or become entangled in it.

During the first week, you’ve made friends with the foal and are able to handle it all over its body. The foal has come to recognize you (and people generally) as non-aggressive and friendly. This allows you to get close to the foal and if you have a “helper” available, you can trap the foal with your arms without creating a panic. Once the foal is “trapped”, either you or your helper can slip the halter over the foal’s nose and close the crown piece. At this point, just stand back and allow the foal to explore the sensations of wearing the halter. At first, the foal will be confused and maybe a little frightened. It will shake its head, trying to dislodge the halter and maybe even bound around a bit. As the foal realizes the halter isn’t hurting it and is just an inanimate “thing” on its head, the foal may become angry at the halter. You’ll see an attitude change and at this point, the foal may try to scrape the halter off with a hind foot. Carefully watch to ensure the foal doesn’t catch a foot in the halter. This can lead to calamity.

Remember, the calmer and self assured you are, the calmer the foal will be. Allow the foal to wear the halter for about 15 minutes the first time, and then remove it. Allow the foal some time with the mare (about an hour or so), it will think about the experience and realize that nothing bad happened. Then repeat the haltering lesson. For the next several days, repeat the halter lesson in as quiet and calm a manner as possible. Repetition is the key, the more times you do it and let the foal discover that it’s a harmless lesson, the calmer and more accepting the foal will be. Eventually, you will be able to just walk up to the foal and place the halter on it.

YeOldFurt

Raising Horses - An Introduction

My wife and I have raised horses for several years. We started first on a five acre parcel down along the Gulf Coast, and then an 11-1/2 acre farm up here in Central Texas. Our goal has always been quality not quantity. We wanted to ensure well behaved foals with good manners and conformation so we didn’t look to be being a large operation. Some of the larger ranches specialize in just turning out foals & horses and let someone else worry about training them. Our foals have been sent to Michigan, Louisiana, California, Florida, Texas and elsewhere. They are involved in everything from ranch work to show work and even the Border Patrol.

The cost of keeping a horse can run $1,000.00 a year or more, depending on acreage or stable costs. Therefore, it is almost mandatory to ensure the horse you get has a good attitude and training.

To our way of thinking, it’s better to acclimate foals to people and what’s expected in good behavior while they are small and manageable rather than wait two years and try to train the basics when they are large and can severely hurt you through a rebellious attitude.

We have several brood mares that double as riding horses of very good bloodlines and conformation. We carefully pick the studs to breed these mares to, in order to ensure intelligent, well conformed foals.

Once the mare is in foal, we regulate the diet and exercise of the mare to ensure an easy natural childbirth. Most births happen in the wee hours of the night although a mare may exhibit signs of labor hours before the main event. Most of our mares have been pretty considerate and foaled while we were able to be there.

Raising Horses - Foaling

At approximately two weeks before an impending birth we place the mare in a small paddock or corral with shelter and the ability to communicate with the rest of the herd “over the fence”. This allows the mare to adjust to her new surroundings and limits her options for birthing. Usually a covered area is included for weather and seclusion. In the wild, a mare will go off by herself or with just her herd buddy when she starts feeling labor pains. This is to ensure the foal doesn’t get hurt by the other horses. The mare won’t go very far from the herd for protection. We perform the same service in a controlled environment.

During the birthing process, the foal is arranged with one forefoot extended ahead of the other and the head lies extended and tucked between the legs. It’s really important not to interfere with the birthing process unless something drastic is happening. As the mare proceeds, she may get up and down several times and pace around a lot and may even refuse food. Endorphins are flooding her system and the labor contractions are making her uncomfortable. This is natural and should be closely observed without interference. Observation will allow you to see the forefeet emerge from the vulva as well as the “breaking of the water”. Ensure the feet are emerging with the soles down, with one foot slightly behind the other. Anything else could signal a breech birth or other serious complication requiring the services of a veterinarian.

Human interaction is really not required during a normal birth and can even be harmful to the mare, foal or yourself. Best to just stand back and monitor for complications while observing the process.

Once the foal has completely slipped from the mare, the umbilical cord is still attached to the placenta inside the mare. The placenta drains the remaining blood through the umbilical cord into the foal at this point and slowly collapses. So don’t do anything to interrupt this process.

Don’t be surprised if mare and foal rest for a short while as the umbilical cord collapses. After the mare has rested, she will probably get up and the cord will break off naturally. The mare will then smell and lick the foal to clean it of the amniotic fluid, blood and other residue. She will also nuzzle the foal to get it to stand. This may take a couple of hours as the foal gets its balance and discovers where the faucet for the milk is. During this time, the mare will slip the placenta. Gather up the placenta and take it away to a place and examine it. It’s not going to be light weight. A five gallon bucket is handy for this.

The placenta should be spread out without folds or twists into two “wings”. One “wing” will exhibit a tear where the foal emerged while the other “wing” is not torn and exhibits a gray, robust appearance. Any missing pieces should be identified and looked for as they may still be inside the mare and will cause septicemia. If in doubt, call the vet.

After the foal has had a chance to nurse for the first time, it is advisable to sterilize the umbilical stump with a Betadine or Providine solution. This is simply a very weak solution of iodine and prevents transmission of bacteria through the stump into the foal. The umbilical stump should collapse into a “string” within a matter of hours with just a slight “bump” next to the belly of the foal. As the area muscles develop, this will become the “belly button” and the “string” will fall off.

Now is the time to acquaint the new foal with people. Some people cal this “imprinting” the foal. Be careful of the mare at this point as some mares can be very aggressive and protective. It’s best to place a halter and lead rope on the mare and have a helper to watch the mare closely. When in doubt, tie the mare with a quick release knot. All actions you take will be right at the mare’s side so she can see what you do. Don’t get aggressive and remain calm and confident.

Take an old towel, the larger the better and wipe the foal down like you were drying it. This gives you the smell of the foal. Don’t be surprised if the foal attempts to elude you. It may even walk under the mare to the other side. If you exhibit patience and even humor, it will de-stress the mare. Take it slow and easy. If you or your helper has to restrain the foal, place your arms around the foal. One arm wrapping the foal in front and one arm wrapping the foal behind the rear. Just hug the foal lightly as the mare constrained it feels, the more terrified it will become. You don’t want a battle here; you just want to make friends. Rub you hands all over the foal while talking to it in soft gentle tones. It doesn’t matter what you say, just say it in soft gentle reassuring tones. The quieter you remain, the quieter the foal will be.

After a couple of minutes of handling the foal, release it and walk away. Repeat this during the next 72 hours, every few hours. The foal is experiencing the world and is open to new ideas so keep it gentle and it will come to identify you as a friend instead of as a predator.

You will want to “make friends” with the foal for at least 72 hours or even the first week before moving on to the next step of introducing the halter. We will cover this next time.

YeOldFurt