Raising Horses - Teaching the Foal

Before teaching the foal the giving of the foot, you must ensure that the foal is well balanced and that you can handle or stroke every inch of the body without resistance. The foal should be well responsive to the lead and stand quietly while being haltered.

To start the lesson, stand facing the foal at it’s front shoulder, turn to face the rear of the foal, then drape the lead rope over your “near” arm (the one closest to the foal) ensuring a foot or two of slack. Run your hands down the shoulder and leg to the foot and attempt to lift the foot with the barest of touch. The foal may lift the foot and if it does, only hold it lifted for a moment before setting it back on the ground.

The foal may not lift the foot and instead, place weight on the foot to resist lifting. It’s normal, as a horse is unbalanced on three legs and feels vulnerable. It’s up to you to teach it to balance on three legs and stand quietly for farrier work or emergencies. To prepare the foal for lifting the foot, continue to stroke the leg and foot while attempting to lift in steadily increasing pressure. If the foal continues to stand on the foot, run a hand up the leg to the “chestnut” just above the knee and squeeze this area with the fingers. This is a nerve point that makes a reflex action of lifting and bending the leg. Capture the foot as it comes off the ground with the other hand and hold it suspended for a couple of moments, then set it back down. The foal may try to pull the foot from your hand. Retain a hold on the foot and ensure you are the determining factor of setting the foot back on the ground. Stand back up and give the foal a few moments to think about what just happened. Then repeat several times, spacing the lessons apart to allow the foal to understand what is being asked for and the fact that it isn’t painful. Repeat the lesson on the other forefoot.

Giving the foot of the rear leg is a little different as even a foal can cause injury here. The automatic reflex of the horse to kick is constructive of three separate movements. First the horse must shift its weight to the front, and then lift the rear leg toward the belly and then project the leg and foot out behind. These are automatic reflexes that we can take advantage of. First, stand just behind the shoulder of the foal at its ribs, and then face towards the back of the foal at about a 45 degree angle. You want to be sure that you can stroke the foal down its flank and butt without injury. Stroke the foal several times and ensure it is calm and quiet.

Next, stroke the foal’s butt and continue the movement down its leg to its foot. Some foals will raise their leg toward their belly in the first part of the kicking movement and you can capture the foot and just hold it at this point. (It’s called “cocking the hammer”.). Hold the foot slightly elevated toward the belly for just a few moments and then set it back down again. Repeat several times.

If the foal stands on the rear leg/foot, simply lean your weight into the foal at the flank and press on the knee joint while lifting the foot. Hold quietly for a few moments and then set the foot back on the ground. Repeat several times, and then do the same on the other rear leg.

Remember patience is the key. Stay calm and be patient and remember you are teaching a young foal lessons on proper behavior, just like teaching a young child. A horse always learns something from it’s interactions with people, whether it’s the right thing or the wrong thing is up to you. NEVER EVER approach a horse or foal in anger. ALWAYS walk away if you feel yourself getting angry.

YeOldFurt

Raising Horses - Leading the Foal

The foal at this point is accepting of the halter and is not intimidated by it. You can halter the foal without incident and handle the foal all over.

Attach a lead rope of 8 to 10 foot length to the bottom ring of the halter and allow the foal to walk around with it attached. The foal will step on it several times and may even be agitated or angry a little. Patience will teach the foal to drag the lead rope in such manner that it doesn’t interfere with it’s way of moving and how best to get out of problems.

The handler stands by to ensure that serious problems are rectified immediately without harming the foal. Don’t let the lead rope become entangled in other objects. Detach the lead rope after about 15 minutes and let the foal wander around the corral without it for about another 15 minutes before re-attaching the lead rope. Repeat this several times until you observe the foal has become accustomed to dragging the lead rope.

Attach the lead rope as normal, but retain the free end while remaining in the center of the corral. The foal will wander off at an angle to the handler. Retain a strong hold on the lead rope. Once the foal reaches the end of the lead rope, it will be stopped and will attempt to keep going. Be prepared for some antics from the foal as it resists the lead and halter. The foal may buck, run in a circle or just stand while it attempts to figure out this new problem. Just be patient and wait a bit.

Once the foal has decided to stand quietly, you can proceed to instruct the foal on leading. First give a slight tug on the lead rope and see if the foal will step toward you. If it does, release the pressure and then wait a few moments and repeat. Continue until the foal approaches you with just the slightest of tugs.

Some foals will set back or dig their heels in and resist the tug pressure. To rectify this, simply walk around the foal while holding light pressure until you are 90 degrees to the foal. Then increase the pressure steadily until the foal turns to face you. Continue this until the foal starts walking forward to release the pressure.

Once the foal recognizes that following the pull will release the pressure of the halter on it’s head, walk to beside the foal’s head and gather up the slack in the lead rope. Don’t grasp the lead rope next to the halter, you want about a foot or two of slack hanging. Pet and rub the foal for being so intelligent as to recognize and solve problems. Then face forward and step off slowly until you feel resistance in the lead rope. The foal doesn’t yet know it’s supposed to go with you, so be patient. When you feel resistance, don’t turn around, just look over your shoulder and lean forward to increase pressure. Hold the pressure as the foal leans back against the pressure. Be aware that the foal may jump forward to release the pressure, so be ready to step sideways out of line. If you get a step or two following you, then relax and pet the foal some more. Take a few moments, then repeat until the foal is following you around the corral and keeping slack on the lead rope. Continue this for at least 30 minutes as a leading lesson. Repeat over the next several days until there is no longer any resistance.

Leading without resistance is mandatory for horses so it's best to teach it while they're young and impressionable.

YeOldFurt

Raising Horses - Haltering the Foal

First off, let me say, I DO NOT advocate leaving a halter on any foal or horse while unattended. Too many times a foal or Horse has become injured, maimed and killed simply because their halter got tangled up with something. If you can’t catch your horse or it won’t come to you, then it’s a behavior problem that needs re-schooling.

The mare and foal should be in the corral, small paddock or large stall area you have been sequestering them in since birthing. Depending on the attitude of the mare, you can leave her loose or you may have to tie her up to keep her from interfering. A foal’s attitude is derived from the mare. How a mare reacts to things will transfer to the foal as it sees that this is the proper course of action. Irregardless of how you treat the mare, remember to be extra cautious and keep an eye on the mare. She can and will hurt you if she thinks you’re hurting the foal. DO NOT SEPARATE THE MARE AND FOAL.

To begin haltering a young foal, ensure you have a proper fitting halter. I like the kind that has adjustable the nose piece as well as the adjustable side or cheek pieces and crown piece. This type of halter allows further adjustment as the foal grows. You may have to adjust the halter to its smallest configuration in the beginning. It should fit as snugly as possible without being very tight. Some small amount of play is allowable, a too-large halter will allow the foal to slip it off or become entangled in it.

During the first week, you’ve made friends with the foal and are able to handle it all over its body. The foal has come to recognize you (and people generally) as non-aggressive and friendly. This allows you to get close to the foal and if you have a “helper” available, you can trap the foal with your arms without creating a panic. Once the foal is “trapped”, either you or your helper can slip the halter over the foal’s nose and close the crown piece. At this point, just stand back and allow the foal to explore the sensations of wearing the halter. At first, the foal will be confused and maybe a little frightened. It will shake its head, trying to dislodge the halter and maybe even bound around a bit. As the foal realizes the halter isn’t hurting it and is just an inanimate “thing” on its head, the foal may become angry at the halter. You’ll see an attitude change and at this point, the foal may try to scrape the halter off with a hind foot. Carefully watch to ensure the foal doesn’t catch a foot in the halter. This can lead to calamity.

Remember, the calmer and self assured you are, the calmer the foal will be. Allow the foal to wear the halter for about 15 minutes the first time, and then remove it. Allow the foal some time with the mare (about an hour or so), it will think about the experience and realize that nothing bad happened. Then repeat the haltering lesson. For the next several days, repeat the halter lesson in as quiet and calm a manner as possible. Repetition is the key, the more times you do it and let the foal discover that it’s a harmless lesson, the calmer and more accepting the foal will be. Eventually, you will be able to just walk up to the foal and place the halter on it.

YeOldFurt

Raising Horses - An Introduction

My wife and I have raised horses for several years. We started first on a five acre parcel down along the Gulf Coast, and then an 11-1/2 acre farm up here in Central Texas. Our goal has always been quality not quantity. We wanted to ensure well behaved foals with good manners and conformation so we didn’t look to be being a large operation. Some of the larger ranches specialize in just turning out foals & horses and let someone else worry about training them. Our foals have been sent to Michigan, Louisiana, California, Florida, Texas and elsewhere. They are involved in everything from ranch work to show work and even the Border Patrol.

The cost of keeping a horse can run $1,000.00 a year or more, depending on acreage or stable costs. Therefore, it is almost mandatory to ensure the horse you get has a good attitude and training.

To our way of thinking, it’s better to acclimate foals to people and what’s expected in good behavior while they are small and manageable rather than wait two years and try to train the basics when they are large and can severely hurt you through a rebellious attitude.

We have several brood mares that double as riding horses of very good bloodlines and conformation. We carefully pick the studs to breed these mares to, in order to ensure intelligent, well conformed foals.

Once the mare is in foal, we regulate the diet and exercise of the mare to ensure an easy natural childbirth. Most births happen in the wee hours of the night although a mare may exhibit signs of labor hours before the main event. Most of our mares have been pretty considerate and foaled while we were able to be there.

Raising Horses - Foaling

At approximately two weeks before an impending birth we place the mare in a small paddock or corral with shelter and the ability to communicate with the rest of the herd “over the fence”. This allows the mare to adjust to her new surroundings and limits her options for birthing. Usually a covered area is included for weather and seclusion. In the wild, a mare will go off by herself or with just her herd buddy when she starts feeling labor pains. This is to ensure the foal doesn’t get hurt by the other horses. The mare won’t go very far from the herd for protection. We perform the same service in a controlled environment.

During the birthing process, the foal is arranged with one forefoot extended ahead of the other and the head lies extended and tucked between the legs. It’s really important not to interfere with the birthing process unless something drastic is happening. As the mare proceeds, she may get up and down several times and pace around a lot and may even refuse food. Endorphins are flooding her system and the labor contractions are making her uncomfortable. This is natural and should be closely observed without interference. Observation will allow you to see the forefeet emerge from the vulva as well as the “breaking of the water”. Ensure the feet are emerging with the soles down, with one foot slightly behind the other. Anything else could signal a breech birth or other serious complication requiring the services of a veterinarian.

Human interaction is really not required during a normal birth and can even be harmful to the mare, foal or yourself. Best to just stand back and monitor for complications while observing the process.

Once the foal has completely slipped from the mare, the umbilical cord is still attached to the placenta inside the mare. The placenta drains the remaining blood through the umbilical cord into the foal at this point and slowly collapses. So don’t do anything to interrupt this process.

Don’t be surprised if mare and foal rest for a short while as the umbilical cord collapses. After the mare has rested, she will probably get up and the cord will break off naturally. The mare will then smell and lick the foal to clean it of the amniotic fluid, blood and other residue. She will also nuzzle the foal to get it to stand. This may take a couple of hours as the foal gets its balance and discovers where the faucet for the milk is. During this time, the mare will slip the placenta. Gather up the placenta and take it away to a place and examine it. It’s not going to be light weight. A five gallon bucket is handy for this.

The placenta should be spread out without folds or twists into two “wings”. One “wing” will exhibit a tear where the foal emerged while the other “wing” is not torn and exhibits a gray, robust appearance. Any missing pieces should be identified and looked for as they may still be inside the mare and will cause septicemia. If in doubt, call the vet.

After the foal has had a chance to nurse for the first time, it is advisable to sterilize the umbilical stump with a Betadine or Providine solution. This is simply a very weak solution of iodine and prevents transmission of bacteria through the stump into the foal. The umbilical stump should collapse into a “string” within a matter of hours with just a slight “bump” next to the belly of the foal. As the area muscles develop, this will become the “belly button” and the “string” will fall off.

Now is the time to acquaint the new foal with people. Some people cal this “imprinting” the foal. Be careful of the mare at this point as some mares can be very aggressive and protective. It’s best to place a halter and lead rope on the mare and have a helper to watch the mare closely. When in doubt, tie the mare with a quick release knot. All actions you take will be right at the mare’s side so she can see what you do. Don’t get aggressive and remain calm and confident.

Take an old towel, the larger the better and wipe the foal down like you were drying it. This gives you the smell of the foal. Don’t be surprised if the foal attempts to elude you. It may even walk under the mare to the other side. If you exhibit patience and even humor, it will de-stress the mare. Take it slow and easy. If you or your helper has to restrain the foal, place your arms around the foal. One arm wrapping the foal in front and one arm wrapping the foal behind the rear. Just hug the foal lightly as the mare constrained it feels, the more terrified it will become. You don’t want a battle here; you just want to make friends. Rub you hands all over the foal while talking to it in soft gentle tones. It doesn’t matter what you say, just say it in soft gentle reassuring tones. The quieter you remain, the quieter the foal will be.

After a couple of minutes of handling the foal, release it and walk away. Repeat this during the next 72 hours, every few hours. The foal is experiencing the world and is open to new ideas so keep it gentle and it will come to identify you as a friend instead of as a predator.

You will want to “make friends” with the foal for at least 72 hours or even the first week before moving on to the next step of introducing the halter. We will cover this next time.

YeOldFurt